any 19-year-old, traversing Italy on an Inter-Railing trip, and finding himself in want of funds to finance the purchase of any but the cheapest industrial grappa, and only gaggingly managing the consumption thereof because “It’s all we’ve got, so neck some!” – will be surprised to find out that – at its best – grappa is among, (is even the …) finest, and most complex fruit of the distiller’s loom.

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